Some corner of a foreign field, part 1

"They don't want to hear about all that, Arthur!"

It's been a bit of an "Oh, What A Lovely War!" kind of year, having visited Austria and immersed in Crown Prince Franz Ferdinand, the Habsburgs and the remnants of the Austro-Hungarian Empire my brother and I planned a trip to Flanders Fields.

For a very formative period of our lives for both of us, our maternal grandfather, Arthur, lived with us in a bi…